GATEWAY TO PARADISE

On our last trip, we couldn't fail to notice a striking picture at Kev and Di's house (Kev is Mandy's brother) in Tauranga.  Di told us that it was a picture she had taken on a visit to the South Island.  It looked to be a stunning location and somewhere that we just had to see for ourselves.  But we couldn't fit it into our itinerary then so we made it a priority for this tour.

Di's inspirational photo canvas

Further research told us that Glenorchy is a 45km drive from Queenstown along the shore of picturesque Lake Wakatipu.  In fact, the drive is considered to be one of the most scenic drives in New Zealand.  We found that it lived up to its billing.

Roadside view, Queenstown to Glenorchy

The hut in the inspirational picture seemed to resemble a railway building.  Indeed, we found that it was once NZ railway property although no railway line out here.  Just rails out to the end of the wharf where the steamers docked.  Before the road was completed, the only communication was by steamer on the lake.

The Wharf, Glenorchy

Having found ourselves a personal beach for lunch we set out to explore the Lagoon Walk.  Another of those brilliant boardwalks; this time through wetland in the mouth's of the Dart and Rees Rivers.  A slow burner at first but the right decision to take the longer loop as we were rewarded with a delightful and peaceful walk.

The Lagoon Walk

On return to our beach a refreshing dip was needed but we found that the waterline was quite muddy.  Soon found a new spot though;  what a place for a swim.

Glenorchy claims to be "The Gateway to Paradise".  Whatever you might think about the scenery, it is factually correct as the township of Paradise is not far from here.  As ever there was so much we couldn't explore this time such as the jet boat tours up the Dart River, the fascinating Scheelite ore mine workings, Dart River walking track, Lake Sylvan and more.  With so much still to see it remains a priority.

We returned to Arrowtown with both of us genuinely moved by the beauty of our day in Glenorchy.  So glad you took that beautiful picture and had it on display, Di.  Can't bear the thought that we might not have found it by our own means.

FOX GLACIER VALLEY

We headed back to Fox Glacier township on some unfinished business.  Last year we took advantage of ideal conditions to view both Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier from the top end with a landing on the snow field.  But this left us no time to view the terminal face of the glacier from the valley below.

On the snow field - 2014

First up, we cycled the 2km from Fox Glacier township to the track leading to "Glacier View".  The track leads off State Highway 6 on the far side of Fox River just after the road bridge. From here the track climbs steadily for about 3km before a window through the forest opens up with a top-to-bottom view of the glacier.

View from Glacier View Point

A further 0.5km up the track there is the car park for our chosen walk, The Chalet Lookout Track.  The information board warns that the track may become impassable after rain and advises on what to look out for.  Without any significant rain for sometime we set off confidently.

The first creeks are bridged, but a gap in the forest revealed one of the larger streams and its field of boulders; an indication of what was to come.

Stream next to Chalet Lookout Track

After a steady 30 to 40 minutes climb through the forest we emerged at Mills Creek.  A couple of other walkers seemed to be exploring up and down the creek and it soon became clear why;  the marked path through the stream looked to be too flooded.  We clambered over the supersize rocks to try and find an easier, and ideally, dry route.  In the end it was clear that we would have to get wet feet.

Crossing Mills Creek

Once across it was a short but steep climb to cross the ridge between Mills Stream and Fox Glacier Valley before arriving at the Chalet viewpoint.  In the 1800s and early 1900s, the terminal face of the ice was beneath the Chalet but it has significantly receded since then.  But what a view!

The Chalet Lookout

After returning to the township for lunch we set off again for a closer encounter.  This time we took advantage of the purpose built Te Weheka cycle track.  This is a traffic free route from the town through the forest to the "Glacier Access" car park on the near side of the river.  From there it is a 1 hour return walk to a viewpoint close to the receding glacier.

View from Glacier Valley track

That is Fox Glacier covered from most angles; perhaps just a guided hike on the glacier itself left?  And we could always take a closer look at Franz Josef.

CHARMING CREEK

If, like us, you like your walks to have some industrial heritage, delightful scenery, tunnels, bridges, waterfalls and a swingbridge then this one is a must do.

At the small township of Ngakawau, 35km north of Westport on State Highway 67, The Charming Creek Walkway is a legacy of the West Coast's mining activities.  But in this area it is black gold rather than the gold encountered through the Buller Gorge en-route from the north.

The walkway follows the route of a disused railway line that was used to bring coal and wood down from Charming Creek.  But the original tracks remain to guide you along the raging waters of the Ngakawau River gorge.  The only gaps are where the occasional landslip has buried the rails or a washout has sent them down the gorge.

With the limited gradient of the railway trackbed, this is an easy walk and the 4km to the waterfall is reckoned to take around an hour.  It probably took us much longer than that as there were so many delightful photo stops.

A strong candidate for our favourite walk so far; an absolute charmer.

Mangatini Falls

GOLD AT THE RAINBOWS' END

From Motueka our route took us some 60 km down the Motueka Valley Highway to join State Highway 6.  After the hard graft of climbing up to the Hope Saddle, the driver couldn't resist the urge to turn into the summit view point.  It's a pity that he hadn't remembered the previous experience here as the parking space is too small and packed with cars and large campervans all jostling to get in and out.  And what with a plague of aggressive wasps and bees, interest in soaking up the fantastic views of the West coast mountains all too quickly dissipated.

But after making a safe escape without incident, we were soon back on SH6 tracking down the gorge of the upper Buller River for a reacquaintance with New Zealand's longest swingbridge.  Located at about 7 km beyond Murchison, the 110 metres long swing bridge is an attraction in its own right, but this time it would simply provide access to a higher adrenaline rush.

New Zealand's longest swingbridge

Buller Canyon Jet has the reputation as one of New Zealand's most exciting jet boat rides.  The mighty Buller River is squeezed into a narrow rock strewn canyon created by successive earthquakes down this fault line.  The last big quake was in 1968 and created the Newton and Fantail rapids.  All perfect ingredients for a high adrenaline ride.

It was strictly no hand luggage on this flight;  small cameras allowed but these had to be safely stowed and wrapped in plastic bags kindly provided by owner/operator Mark.  He had warned that there was a risk of getting slightly damp.

Narrow canyon of pink rock

In between bursts of high energy twists, turns and multiple 360 degree spins, there were opportunities to unwrap the cameras to shoot the pink, Potassium rich, rocks and even drink the crystal clear waters.

Mark showed us natural features such as "NZ's smallest waterfall" and the "tiny rainbows" that clustered around a marginally bigger waterfall as it dribbled into the river.  As the river bed is still genuinely rich with alluvial gold (and is still worked by a lone diver), clearly there is a pot of gold at the end of these particular rainbows.  Mark even produced a small pot of gold flakes he had collected to prove it.

A highly physical ride, and undoubtedly the most exhilarating experience ever for us.

Drifting for awhile to catch our breath

We howled with laughter throughout and the banter with Mark made it a totally unforgettable experience; at least until we dry off!  Five stars; brilliant!

"May get slightly damp" they said

ABEL TASMAN BY KYAK

On last year's visit to the Abel Tasman National Park, we had sampled the stunning coastline by water taxi from Kaiteriteri to Torrent Bay.  We then continued on foot to Bark Bay to await our return water taxi.  We loved the 2.5 hour walk and the iconic swingbridge, but we looked on enviously at those kayaking around the coast and resolved to return one day for a different perspective of the coastline.

There are numerous operators providing guided kayak tours and various options from half day to three day trips with walking elements too.  You can hire a kayak and make your own way, but we saw first hand towards the end of our day how perilous this can be as a couple flagged down our water taxi for help;  definitely a guided tour for us.

We settled on Kahu Kayaks and their full day tour into the marine reserve at the northern end of the National Park.

Kahu Kayaks offered a free pick-up from our base in Motueka for the transfer to Marahau.  And being a smaller company than some of the bigger operators, we felt this would provide a more personal experience.  With just two other double kayaks, our local guide Luc was able to keep close eye on us all.

We boarded the water taxi at their base in Marahau.  Initially, towed by a tractor along the road to the beach and then, once the kayaks were loaded, on our way to Onetahuti at an exhilarating 35 knots.

Onboard the water taxi

Initially we paddled further north into the marine reserve spotting Stingrays in the crystal clear waters beneath us and then seals sunbathing on the rocks just metres away.

Stingray spotting

We landed on the beach at Tonga Arches for a swim whilst Luc made coffees.  Then we set-out again heading south, and as we left the reserve, Luc trailed a fishing line behind his kayak.  Perhaps there would be something to supplement the "play lunches" provided by Kahu.

Coffee stop at Tonga Arches

But with nothing caught on the line, we came ashore at Sandfly Bay with just our play lunches and to chill.  Fortunately we were not troubled by those pesky biting flies as aching muscles were rested and revived on the lovely beach.

Resting aching muscles at Sandfly Bay

Reviving aching muscles at Sandfly Bay

On the trip back, some team working was called for as all the kayaks were linked up to sail on the sea breeze towards Anchorage Bay by means of a makeshift spinnaker.

An absolutely wonderful day in perfect conditions.  We were so right to have come back for this experience.

THE GREAT TASTE TRAIL

There is a Danish couple who have taken up the pitch next to us this evening.  A refreshing change from the more typical Brits, German or Dutch who probably make up the bulk of the European campervanners.

Our cycle ride today on a section of The Great Taste Trail took us around the Waimea estuary which is home to a range of internationally significant bird species in the mud flats and salt marshes. But it wasn't the White Heron and Royal Spoonbill that had drawn us to this trail;  it was the boardwalks, swing bridge, and the backdrop of the beautiful Tasman Sea and the inland mountain ranges.

We picked up the trail close to our overnight base in Richmond and rode across the boardwalks in the salt marshes, over the magnificent swing bridge and through the forested trails of Rabbit Island to picnic close to the beach.  The trail surface was perfect for cycling, the weather was perfect for cycling, the views were stunning and there were great places to stop and take a breather along the route.

The advertising campaign of some years ago by Danish brewer, Carlsberg had come to mind during the day.  This is where they had suggested that if the diversified into activities other than brewing, then whatever it was, it would be a utopia.  So with glorious weather, a wonderful trail and beautiful scenery, perhaps Carlsberg might be considering "doing cycle trails".  Could it be that the Danish couple who are our neighbours tonight are here on business rather than touring?

FORGOTTEN WORLD BY RIVER

Before the road and rail links were driven through, The Whanganui River was an essential trade link through this region from the coast to Central North Island.  Passenger boats from Whanganui on the coast came up the river to Pipriki for an overnight stay at the lavish Pipriki House before continuing their journey in smaller tunnel drive boats that would haul themselves up the rapids with steel cables anchored into the limestone gorge.

Whanganui River rapids

Our journey up the Whanganui River also started at Pipriki but there is now little sign of the hotel which burned down in 1959.  Like the tunnel keel boats of the 19th Century, our boat was also optimised for scaling the shallow waters and the rapids.  But the Hamilton jet boats are a 20th Century innovation and are a white knuckle ride with 7 litre American V8 muscle power.

Our 1 hour trip up the Whanganui River to Mangapurua Landing scaled several rapids and passed numerous canoeists making their way downstream.  Our wake causing some anxiety.

From the landing, we then had an enjoyable 40 minutes walk through the bush to our final destination.

Hike from Mangapurua Landing

Sections of land in this remote and difficult landscape were offered to veterans returning from The Great War to establish farms.  But they faced enormous challenges in clearing the bush and getting a foothold in this area.  Even where they managed to make progress the winter rains would often wash the newly seeded areas away.  Many sections were abandoned.  

Those pioneers that remained toiled hard to make a success.  To bring materials and stock across the river, a swing bridge was fashioned to replace the precarious aerial rope way. 

Remains of the swing bridge

But even this was too precarious with heavy losses and the colonial government was persuaded to build a more substantial structure.

The Bridge to Nowhere

Shortly after the bridge was completed the Government decided to cut costs, abandon maintenance of the access road and give notice to the remaining farmers.  As a result the substantial bridge is a total folly and is now known as The Bridge to Nowhere.

FORGOTTEN WORLD BY RAIL

Construction of the 150km rail link from Taumarunui to Stratford was started in 1901 and was scheduled to be completed within 10 years.  But in fact it wasn't finished until 1932; partly due to the large number of tunnels and bridges needed but also due to the lack of manpower following the outbreak of The Great War in 1914.

Today, 140km of the line have been mothballed by Kiwi Rail and a lease acquired by farmer and entrepreneur, Ian Balme to host his vision of self-drive railcarts journeying through the heart of The Forgotten World.

Our shuttle bus tracked us back along The Forgotten World Highway from Taumarunui to intercept the railway at the remote township of Tokirima.  During the trip our driver Ian told us about the business and the owners;  he was clearly proud to be part of the venture.  The proud boast is that, in this third year of operation, they expect to carry more passengers than Kiwi Rail!

At Tokirima, the station was opposite the school which has just 8 pupils!  No station buffet with cappuccinos or lattes here, but an excellent Kiwi style picnic laid on by the enthusiastic team from Forgotten World Adventures whilst we waited for the carts to arrive from the morning's outbound tour.

Kiwi lunch at Tokirima

After some nifty turntable work, the carts were all turned around and ready for us to drive them back towards Taumarunui.

Turning the carts around

Ready for crew change

Once again we were reminded of the isolation of this landscape; as the safety briefing included not just the location of the First Aid kit but also the location of the satellite phone and instructions for its operation!  This would be our only option for summoning emergency help.

We had chosen the 10 tunnels tour; the longest tunnel is 1.5km and the tour covers about 45km in total.

Our brilliant guide, Maree marshalled the convoy to halt at various points of interest along the line where she brought the Forgotten World back to life with human stories of townships that used to be bustling, of thriving industries now abandoned, of individual characters still resident and of the construction.

Hearing about the abandoned coal mine

In between stops, the convoy fragmented and at times such that you could truly visualise the isolation.

A unique experience and we thoroughly enjoyed our day.  And if you think 45km and ten tunnels may not be enough for you, there are multi-day options where you can cover the entire 140km of the line.