THANKS TO THE BOSS

Our plan for the trip included a weekend in Auckland before flying home on the Monday.  The van was scheduled to be dropped-off at the depot on Friday afternoon and then we would head to our hotel in Auckland’s centre.

As we reached Invercargill and turned our van towards the north we had two weeks left in it.  This seemed like a good time to find a hotel in Auckland.  But we quickly found that there wasn’t a room available anywhere in the city or nearby.  The reason was that Bruce Springsteen, “The Boss”, was playing Auckland that weekend and every spare room had been booked up by eager fans.  We enquired about extending the hire on the van but that had already been allocated.  So, an alternative plan was hatched.

We decided to hire a car and head for the Coromandel Peninsular on the North Island’s east coast.  We had not been able to include this area on our original itinerary but we now had an ideal opportunity.

The rental car desk at the airport was manic and then the traffic out of Auckland on the Southern Motorway was at a slow crawl.  We were glad to have finally escaped the city and its traffic.  After the open space and open roads of the last 6 weeks we were relieved not to be spending our final days in a busy city swollen by the influx of thousands of concert revellers.

Although the distance between Auckland and our destination was not great, the heavy traffic and then the relentless twists and turns through the hills of The Coromandel made it a long drive to our motel at Hot Water Beach.   Next day we were able to find out that this beach is exactly what it says on the tin.  Bring a spade or hire one locally, dig a hole at low tide and you can create your own hot spa until it is flooded by the turning tide.  There is a hot spring under the beach and bathers are warned to take care as temperature of the water can exceed 60 degrees Centigrade.

Hot Water Beach

Digging Hot Spas on Hot Water Beach

The next beach along is Hahei Beach and we noted that there are sea kayaking tours departing from here.  We had jealously watched sea kayakers a few weeks earlier during our lovely walk at Abel Tasman National Park.  We had both agreed that this was something we would like to try; perhaps during our next visit to New Zealand we mused.  But here was a golden opportunity; the sea was pretty calm and warm, the sun was shining and the leaflet said “No experience necessary”.  Before any doubts had a chance to set in we had signed up for the afternoon tour to Cathedral Cove.  Apparently, we would be at sea for up to 3½ hours and it would include a cappuccino on the remote beach made by our guide.  We both knew that it would either be a highlight of our trip or our worst nightmare!

Well, thanks Boss; you gave us the opportunity for a top 3 highlight of our tour if not ‘The’ highlight of our tour.

Cathedral Cove

Coffee on the Beach

Kitted up for the Return Journey

LAZY RIVER

Kiwis and tourists alike seem to be crazy for jetboats.  These high powered thrill machines were invented in New Zealand by a cattle rancher, Bill Hamilton especially to navigate shallow rivers.  They have no propeller; propulsion is by a water pump coupled to a powerful multicylinder engine; usually V8 American muscle.

It seems that almost every significant river comes with its own jetboat operator offering high speed adrenaline rides.  New Zealand’s longest river the mighty Waikato River, is no different.  Indeed different sections of the Waikato have their own jetboat.  We had already encountered Hukafalls Jet and just downstream there is Rapids Jet that includes a white water trip on the rapids near Aratiatia Dam.  Typically, your 100NZD buys you a 25-30 minutes ride.

A little further downstream there is NZ Riverjet.  This option caught our eye as, at 2½-3 hours, it was more of a tour than a brief encounter.  NZ Riverjet offers various packages; one of these was made popular as it was featured in the US tv programme ‘Bachelor’.  Called “The Squeeze”, it includes a walk through a narrow gully carved by a hot stream.  This seems popular with younger couples but we chose ‘The Thermal Safari’.

The Thermal Safari consists of an hour’s jetboat cruise down the Waikato River and through the spectacular Tutukau Gorge.  There are several stops along the way with fascinating insight to the fauna, flora and geology provided by our pilot.  Then there is entry to the Orakei Korako Thermal Reserve.  This is said to be the best remaining example of a thermal area in New Zealand.  It didn’t disappoint.  Finally it is back across the river by ferry to meet up with the jetboat for a full-on 25 minute blast back up the Waikato River.  On the way our pilot included ten of the infamous 360 degree rotations known as the ‘Hamilton Spin’.

We loved our Thermal Safari and our first taste of these brilliant boats.

Cruising Downstream

 Orakei Korako Thermal Reserve

 Blasting Upstream, Hamilton Spin

HOT AND COLD RUNNING WATER

Back at home, the nearby village of Meriden is reputed to be the center of England.  Here in North Island, Taupo on the shores of Lake Taupo is pretty much the geographic center too.  But any similarities end there as this is volcano country.

The huge Lake Taupo is the crater of a massive eruption; apparently the largest in the world over the last 5000 years.  The whole region remains active and there is evidence of geothermal activity all around.  There are a number of thermal spas and walks in the area, even the outdoor pool at our holiday park is geothermally heated and was a very pleasant 32 degrees Centigrade during our swims.

Craters of the Moon Thermal Area

Wairakei Thermal Valley

New Zealand's longest river, the mighty Waikato River drains Lake Taupo and within a few hundred metres of the lake the gorge narrows to create the impressive Huka Falls.  Options for viewing include the walking trails, roadside viewpoint and also from the river itself.  The Huka Falls Jet Boat and the more sedate Huka Falls River Cruise jockey for position and each claim the best view!

Huka Falls River Cruise

Huka Falls Jet Boat

Both boats pass the Wairakei Geothermal Power Station on the way to the falls. Superheated steam and hot water are drawn through a line of bright metal pipes from the nearby steam field.  The condensed steam and spent warm water are then discharged into the Waikato River with sulphurous odors.

A little further down stream, at the Aratiatia Dam the original course of the river has been diverted to feed the Aratiatia Hydro Power Station.  A condition of the development is that the sluice gates are opened several times a day for fifteen minutes to flood the rapids.  This is mainly as a spectacle for tourists and there are walking trails to access the viewpoints down the rapids.

Aratiatia Rapids

The hot and cold running waters of the Taupo area provided a fascinating attraction for us but they are just a sample of what is available here.  There are numerous other activities both on and off the lake.  No wonder this is such a popular holiday destination for Kiwis and international visitors alike.

NO DEPRESSION DINNER

Sometimes things just fall into place.  So it was with our visit to nearby Napier from our base in Hastings; it just happened to coincide with the annual Art Deco Weekend.

Art Deco Weekend is a festival that celebrates the town's rich Art Deco influence as the distinctive architecture style was chosen when Napier was rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1931.

With jazz, classic cars, historic aircraft, competitions and fine dining, the festival attracts visitors from all over the country and internationally; most seemed to be in period dress too.

Jazz on the Beach

Classic Cars

The main street was closed to traffic for a series of soap box car races.  Clearly parents had been busy perfecting the design of these gravity powered racers before entrusting them to their youngsters to drive.  The safety barriers were lined with spectators.  Clearly great fun was being had.

Soap Box Racers

Part of the Marine Parade was also closed to through traffic for a concourse show of the beautifully prepared vintage cars which were frequently cruising the parade with occupants in full costume.

According to one of the organisers who accosted us for a visitor survey, we should definitely look out for the Gatsby Picnic on the sea front.  Apparently great effort would be made in a "little bit of showing off and one-upmanship". Walking along the front we observed much anxiety amongst picnickers as they tried to keep their gazebos tethered and hang on to their 1930s hats in the strong winds.  We could see what our tipster meant; there were glorious displays of 'luncheon spreads' everywhere and wonderful costumes.

Gatsby Picnic Luncheon

With all the distraction in town we only briefly covered some of the pretty gardens and architecture.  Inevitably we did get drawn to the lookout point at Bluff Hill but we did not get to the Old Port, the Gannet Colony at Cape Kidnappers or any of the Hawkes Bay wineries; and we didn't get invited to the Depression Dinner.

Centennial Gardens

Hawkes Bay from Bluff Hill

Even we hadn't struck lucky with the Art Deco Weekend, Napier would still be a fine place to visit.  Unfortunately we have to leave with unfinished business in Hawkes Bay.

JUST PASSING THROUGH

It is easy to imagine that the towns PR team might claim that "there is so much more to Picton than just the ferry terminal".  No doubt it would be argued that the majority just briefly passing through on the way to higher profile locations are missing "a jewel on the northern tip of South Island".  Well they would say that wouldn't they.

With only a relatively short hop from our stay at Kaikoura, and just a brief but enjoyable distraction at Ohau Seal Colony on the way, we found we had time to check out Picton.

Ohau Seal Colony

Our base right next to the marina meant that we discovered this particular haven immediately.  A delightful and tasteful development on the short walk to the town and harbour front.  Glances into the clear waters of the marina and the harbour revealed more than just the play things of the well heeled; there were stingrays gliding silently below the surface.  Intrigued, we spent some time tracking them as they patrolled the perimeter of the harbour and marina.

Picton Marina

 Stingray in Picton Marina

Picton Harbour

Later, we decided to take on the Tirohanga Walkway which leads up the surrounding hills to a viewpoint.  It was a grueling climb in the heat especially where there was no shade from the bush.  The reward was worth it though with a stunning panorama of Picton Harbour, Waikawa Bay and the beautiful Sounds beyond.

Viewpoint on Tirohanga Walkway

If that PR team do claim that Picton is as much a destination as a port, then we wouldn't disagree.  In researching our walk we discovered that there are many others that sound just as appealing.  If we have a future opportunity we would like to stay longer and try them.

TAILS OF TOHORA AND FRIENDS

The Whale Watch enterprise emerged in 1987 as the local Maori community in Kaikoura were facing an economic decline.  According to legend, their ancestor had journeyed to find a new life in New Zealand on the back of a whale, Tohora; here seemed another opportunity for whales to come to their aid.

The business has developed to operate a fleet of purpose designed catamarans, a marina to accommodate them in South Bay and a bookings office/café/shop at the Whaleway Station in Kaikoura; a dual purpose building also serving the railway station on the Picton to Christchurch line.   South Bay is a few kilometres away on the far side of the peninsular from Kaikoura.  This explained why we had not seen any evidence of the fleet in Kaikoura itself, but we had stumbled across it on our walk around the peninsular, past the seal colony, and then to the harbour at South Bay.  Clearly a bus transfer would be part of our tour.

Whale Watch Marina, South Bay

Whilst there can be no guarantees of viewing marine wildlife, the operators claim a 95% success rate and offer an 80% refund if no whales are sighted.  Typically, there are one or two sightings on each tour.

We awoke on the morning of our tour to the promised calm weather and it looked to the layman that sea conditions might be kind to us.  On check-in, our tour was confirmed as ‘good to go’ with only a mild sea sickness warning.  We hoped that this was only a ‘safety first’ minimum warning and that actually sea conditions were likely to be pretty ideal.  At the subsequent briefing, we were advised that whales had been sighted on earlier tours and that we would initially be heading out to the deep water trench at just four miles offshore.

Our vessel, Wawahai, was immaculate, comfortable and soon had us speeding out towards the feeding ground of the whales.  Our guide explained how to keep watch but not to shout “There she blows!” as the Sperm Whales in these cool waters are all males.  He was interrupted by the excited instruction of our Watch Keeper to leave the cabin and head for the decks.  Their enthusiasm was real enough and not just because there would be no refunds needed on this tour!

Sperm Whale

Having scrambled for the decks we did not return to the cabin again for more than 90 minutes.  A succession of sightings in the area and the calm seas allowed the captain to cruise between them with us safely remaining on the decks.  Our tour overlapped with a later departure; we noted that their boat was the Tohora, named after that legendary whale that carried a Maori ancestor to New Zealand. 

Tohora

Finally after an incredible seven separate sightings of Sperm Whales we had to leave the deep waters.  On the return trip we watched out for other marine life and found Fur Seals, Wandering Albatross and the small Hectors Dolphin which are rare and unique to New Zealand.

Wandering Albatross

Hectors Dolphin

Whale Watch, Kaikoura was a brilliant experience; very professionally run from booking to tour with great enthusiasm and humour.  The couple who “Don’t do boats” thoroughly enjoyed our tour.

GARDEN CITY RE-START

We felt a little apprehensive about visiting Christchurch, the Garden City.  Not because we were fearful of a recurrence of the devastating earthquakes of 2010 and 2011 or even a minor aftershock.  We just weren’t sure if it was right to be gawping at the damage.

On balance, we felt that tourism had been important to Christchurch before it was struck and so perhaps it was important in helping the recovery.  We set off for the city centre from our base within the northern part of the city by public transport.

Whilst we knew from the headlines that many of the picturesque buildings, such as the Cathedral, had been badly damaged, we were not prepared for what we found.  Fond memories of the city’s layout from our previous visit were dulled by the passing of fifteen years, but even so it was barely recognisable.  The scale of destruction was far greater than we had thought.  Whilst most streets were now open, whole blocks have been torn down and new foundations were being prepared.  Meanwhile countless other blocks were boarded up behind security fences whilst they waited their turn.  For a central business district we found few people around and wondered where all the jobs were now.

Cathedral Square

The rebuild of the historic Arts Centre was well underway but behind the temporary steel buttresses it is easy to see precarious masonry and distorted window reveals.  The iconic trams are at least running again but on a much reduced circuit.

Rebuilding the Arts Centre

Christchurch's Iconic Trams 

It was all quite upsetting, and in the increasing heat we headed to the Botanic Gardens to find something easier on the eye and some shade.  But even here all the original buildings such as the café, bandstand and glasshouse were closed due to earthquake damage.

Botanic Gardens

Back in town we had lunch from a pop-up restaurant as we felt we were supporting the entrepreneurs who were making the best of their lot.  And it was a great lunch too!

Pop-Up Restaurant

We then had to escape the city and head to the Gondola on Port Hills, part of the volcanic crater rim that overlooks Christchurch and Lyttleton.

View of Lyttleton Harbour from the top of Port Hills

We admire the optimism and determination of all those involved in the Re-start project.  The aftermath of the earthquakes must have been truly heartbreaking. Clearly there is so much still to be done but tangible progress is being made.  We wish Christchurch well.

Pop-Up Mall